Monday, July 19, 2004

List 4—What I Like About Buenos Aires

Once again, I'll avoid the obvious for now—obviously I like living in the same city with my girlfriend, finally! We had an extremely long distance relationship for about 4 years.... And, I leave out food as well, because that's already got it's own list.

BUILDINGS—I love the ride home in taxi ("remis" actually, but I won't get into explaining the difference) from Susana's house. I stare out the window at all the amazing old buildings. The fifteen foot tall doorways with wrought iron doors. The balconies and ornate stonework of the buildings. There's nothing like it in LA. I keep saying that I'm going to get out and take pictures of more buildings.... I need to do it before I leave.

BUSY, BUSTLING STREETS—It's funny, 'cause this one can often fall under my list of dislikes. There are times when the crowded streets are just too much for me to take. My girlfriend and I can't even walk down the street holding hands. But, that said, it's a nice change from LA where the streets are often deserted, the residents ensconced all by themselves in their cars or living rooms fortified with entertainment centers. Here, there are always people on the main avenues, walking, waiting for the bus, or hailing a taxi.

MOVIES—Buenos Aires is a big movie watching city. In addition to local products, and all the Hollywood blockbusters, there is lots of international and independent cinema. The more expensive theaters cost 11 pesos, or about 4 dollars. Sometimes, in the cheaper ones, with a discount coupon, we can buy tickets for about $1.50 each! Those theaters are not the newest, fanciest, but they are not bad either.

CONVENIENCE—I kind of always thought of the US as the kingdom of cushy, spoiled living and, in some ways, it is. And, in some ways, living here in Buenos Aires presents challenges in making do without gadgets or utensils (I'm thinking of the kitchen mainly) that I am used to. But, there are also some amazing conveniences here. You can get just about anything delivered. Pizza being delivered surely is not big deal to "Americans," but how about ice cream (my personal favorite)? Or empanadas (ubiquitous Argentine meat-filled pastries, see the food list)? Or your groceries from the supermarket? Just tell them at the register of most of the larger markets and they will put your items in a plastic container and deliver them within a few hours generally. Actually just about every restaurant that does take out will deliver.

Another convenience are the "kioskos." These are just tiny little convenience stores—we would probably call them liquor stores in the US, except that they don't sell liquor. They used to, I think, but they changed the law on that. Kioskos are everywhere and stay open usually to midnight at least. You can get candy, soda, water, medicines, etc. It's not that what they offer is so convenient, it's just that they are everywhere.

(One note on all this convenience that might already be fairly obvious: it's basically based on having cheap labor and a bad economy. You can afford to have things delivered "for free" because the delivery person is not getting paid much. And, kioskos are open all hours of the day because the owners are struggling and need to stay open and earn every last cent they can.)

PUBLIC TRANSIT—A practical subway system that covers much of the city. Buses, buses, buses, everywhere. You hardly ever have to wait more than 10 minutes for a bus. I only wish LA had public transit like here.

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